8 days in Belize: from tropical pine forests, rivers, & ruins to turquoise seas
The Hubs and I traveled to Belize 8 years ago. We absolutely loved our trip, so much so that Belize has come up in our many retirement conversations. We thought the weather was great, the inland jungle region was fun to explore, and the island vibe was right up our alley. Look at us…so young!
As the kids begin to launch, our trips are changing. This trip was our first with only The Baby, so she got voting power. Inspired by our love of Belize and her desire to get new stamps in her passport, The Baby voted for a trip to Belize for our February break trip this year. Other than the occasional teen girl angst, she's pretty easy. She's up for almost anything and isn’t picky. It was a fun, memorable trip, just the three of us!
The tropical climate is high on the list of Belize’s many charms, with an average temperature of 84° F. The dry season, from February through May, has significantly lower rainfall. June through December is the wet season when parts of the country receive up to 150 inches of rain and heavy, sometimes wild storms. While the wet season is also hurricane season, Belize doesn’t receive many major direct hits; however, it does experience its share of severe tropical weather with high winds and rain.
More than half of the inland part of the country is covered in tropical forests and is home to more than 600 protected Mayan sites. The 450 islands called Cayes (pronounced keys), many undeveloped, are known for excellent snorkeling and diving. According to UNESCO, The Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System is “the largest reef complex in the Atlantic-Caribbean region; it represents the second-largest reef system in the world. The unique array of reef types within one self-contained area distinguishes the site from other reef systems. The site is one of the most pristine reef ecosystems in the Western Hemisphere…provides important habitat for a number of threatened marine species." Belize’s small size (slightly smaller than New Hampshire) makes it relatively easy to explore its different regions in a shorter trip. It is worth exploring both its jungles and beaches.
We structured this trip similarly to our previous trip by splitting time between an inland jungle lodge and an island beach resort.
For the first four nights of our Belizean adventure, we stayed inland at The Lodge at Chaa Creek. Chaa Creek is located along the Macal River in the Cayo District, outside San Ignacio, about a two-hour drive from Belize City. Chaa Creek describes itself as “Wildly Civilized.” This description is pretty much spot on. The property is beautiful and extensive. The staff aimed to please and often greeted us by name. Comprehensive, onsite activities are available, and they will help you book numerous offsite adventures. The food is fantastic. Airport transportation is available. There are all-inclusive packages available, which combine many, if not all, of these amenities; we opted to purchase the 4-night Inland Expedition Package.
You will likely begin your time in Belize by flying into Belize City. Included in our package was a driver from Chaa Creek who was waiting for us at the airport. After the two-hour drive, we arrived at Chaa Creek and were welcomed warmly by reception. Our day was long, so we spent our first evening getting settled in our room and having an early dinner.
We liked the resort a lot. It's worth noting, however, that the bathroom in our room could have been more explicitly described on the website. Had we known the layout, we would have picked a different room. We stayed in a deluxe cottage room. The online description states, “Accommodates 3. Great for couples or families.” The pictures looked like the room would be perfect for our family. The room had a king and a twin, a small seating area, and an ample private outdoor space —all as described and pictured. For our family, two adults and a 14-year-old teen girl, the open-concept bathroom was….less than ideal. While the bathroom was spacious with two sinks, ample storage, and a large shower, there were no doors, no door closing it off from the sleeping/sitting area, no door to the toilet, and no door on the shower. A partial 3/4 wall separated the central area from the bathroom area, but a nearly complete lack of privacy and a teen girl do not go together. Pictured below are the online photos, which, in hindsight, do not show any doors. While making my reservation, it never occurred to me to look for bathroom doors or that the room would lack any significant bathroom privacy.
The Hubs and I enjoyed a nightly pre-dinner cocktail at the bar while The Baby enjoyed some quiet alone time in our room. The outdoor bar at Chaa Creek had nice seating and numerous house-made infused spirits. Each night, I tried a different spirit. My favorite was a lychee-infused rum Caipirinha.
Meals were included in our all-inclusive package, and the farm-to-table food was delicious. Impressively, most of the produce served at Chaa Creek is grown on their own organic farm, and what can’t be grown is procured from local producers. We enjoyed breakfast daily, which we could preorder on days we had early excursions. Lunch can be enjoyed in the dining room, by the pool, or as a preordered packed lunch for excursions. Dinner is served in the outdoor dining room as a fixed four-course meal or a la carte.
During our last visit to Belize, The Hubs and I did a thrilling tour of ATM cave. If you’ve read previous blog posts, you know I am a big baby - I don’t like heights or confined spaces. So when I read in the tour description that it’s not recommended for those with claustrophobia, I was a bit anxious. But honestly, I was so glad we did it. We enjoyed it so much that we booked it again for our trip with The Baby. The concierge at Chaa Creek secured our adventure along with our packed lunches. Our Chaa Creek driver-turned-ATM guide, Alexi, was fantastic.
The Chaa Creek page tour page gives an excellent description: Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, also known as the ATM, is an ancient Maya ceremonial Belize cave rich in both history and artefacts…featured in National Geographic, History Channel, Lonely Planet and other documentaries, magazines and guidebooks…After an hour and half drive from Chaa Creek and a 45-minute walk along a jungle trail fording three river crossings,…The real adventure begins with a swim into the cave’s mouth, still partially concealed by the overhanging jungle plants that kept it hidden for so many years. Actun Tunichil Muknal was perhaps the most important of sacred Belize caves, one in which the ancient Maya conducted elaborate ceremonies to appease their gods…once inside, visitors wade along a shallow underground river before scaling ladders that lead to sacrificial altars still surrounded by jade axe heads, pottery, blood letting implements and other artefacts. As you venture deeper, the skulls and skeletons of sacrificial victims compete for space with more artefacts and stalagmites while beautiful, multi hued stalactites adorn cathedral like ceilings. The highlight of the tour is the famous Crystal Maiden, from which this Belize cave gets one of its nicknames. The intact skeleton of a young sacrificial victim has over the years been coated with a sparkling crystal carbonate, giving her an eerie sparkle that shimmers in the torchlight.
The tour is a few hours long and can be physically challenging in parts. It involves swimming, navigating small yet doable passages, and scaling rock falls and boulders. Our adventure even included “a very tiny flashflood” (according to Alexi) that forced plan B/C/ & D rerouting attempts to get us out of the cave. The Hubs and The Baby said this only added to the excitement! Even with this slight misadventure (in my opinion), I’d still highly recommend the tour.
No cameras as allowed inside the cave, so I got these pictures from Google.
On our second day, we did a half-day tour of Cahal Pech, a Maya site in San Ignacio. Again, the concierge secured our adventure, and our Chaa Creek driver-turned-guide was very informative. Our family loves history, so touring these historical sites and stepping back in time is always fun and interesting for us.
That afternoon, we took the on-site horseback riding tour. The ride traverses parts of the vast 400-acre Chaa Creek nature reserve, including the farm and forests. We took a short break at a nice overlook area where a troop of howler monkeys made their home in the canopy. The horses were excellent trail horses and suitable for any level of rider.
The Hubs and I concluded our day with a Creatures of the Night tour. You know The Baby wouldn’t join us if you read my Costa Rica post. Our tour had a few young children, so noise probably kept our sightings limited, but we did see many spiders, including a tarantula, a scorpion, and a porcupine hiding in a tree.
We spent our last morning at Chaa Creek by the pool. The weather was spectacular, and the saltwater pool provided a nice escape from the heat. We enjoyed lunch at the pool before a quick visit to the butterfly farm.
Chaa Creek is working to help re-establish the Blue Morphos after suffering a decreasing population from deforestation by supporting the butterfly through its fascinating life cycle. The butterfly farm is filled with butterflies!
Upon arrival at our room, we were introduced to a Blue Morpho chrysalis that would emerge as a "Belizean Blue" during our visit. At that point, we released it into the jungle, helping to repopulate the Blue Morpho in the Belizian tropical forests.
Our afternoon concluded with a beautiful and relaxing time gently tubing down the neighboring Macal River. We were the only people on the river, and it was nice to soak up the afternoon sun on our last day in the tropical pine forests of Belize.
Our Inland Expedition Package included return transportation with a stop at the Belize Zoo. The zoo is about halfway to Belize City, and while small, it gives you an up-close look at Belize's wildlife.
We opted to fly from Belize City to Ambergris Caye, but a ferry is also available. The flight (we took Maya Air) is only about 15 minutes in a little puddle jumper prop plane. It's not my idea of fun, but The Hubs and The Baby—who sat copilot—loved the low-altitude flight. If you choose to fly, please check out the baggage restrictions.
My thoughts on the largest island and most developed island, Ambergris Caye. The Hubs and I loved this laid-back, beach bum-vibe, golf cart living island eight years ago. The locals were friendly, I felt very safe, and there were many resident ex-pats. It checked all our boxes. Something changed over the last near-decade in San Pedro. On our previous trip, the full integration of high-end resorts sitting directly next to local housing and tourist restaurants sharing a street corner with a local food cart was part of the island's charm. San Pedro now has a bit of a downtrodden feel, and the locals can be a bit pushy and intrusive. I wouldn’t feel safe being out alone at night, and I would not want my daughter alone during the day. While serious crime rates remain low, petty crime is rising (we had a Yeti stolen from our golf cart). We still love the country and will visit again, but we will explore a different beach location — Caye Caulker or the Placencia Peninsula — as we narrow in on our retirement plans. Growth and development continue on Ambergris Caye in San Pedro and beyond, so developers and tourists like this island. So, take my opinion simply as my “then vs. now” thoughts on the island.
Although short, our time at the beach was primarily spent relaxing on the deck of our spacious two-bedroom garden-view suite at Xanadu Island Resort, by the resort pool, in the hot tub, or along the sandy seawall.
Given that Ambergris Caye is a barrier island, there are not many actual beaches. Most of the coast has seawalls with water access through long piers.
To get a more traditional Caribbean white sand beach experience, you’ll need to venture to Secret Beach, north and west of San Pedro. While really no “secret” at all, you will need a car or a golf cart to get there. The ride is long and bumpy over mostly unpaved roads. The 9-mile drive took us nearly an hour. Google Maps will get you there, and the route is well-marked. There are a number of beachfront bars/restaurants that offer seating and palapas for relaxing and the Instagram-famous drink and dine-in-the-sea option. We visited Pirates and enjoyed ceviche and a delicious frozen mojito with our toes in the sand.
While Xanadu does not have a restaurant, the rooms have full kitchens. If you want to get some staples or cook at the hotel, I recommend picking up your groceries at Super Buy Supermarket. It has the most “like home” food market shopping experience.
However, we explored local cuisine and had some great food. We enjoyed an afternoon snack of conch fries and ceviche at Palapa, a dinner feast of lobster, shrimp, and snapper at Caliente, a delicious breakfast at Estel’s, and a quick American-style bakery/cafe breakfast at The Baker.
San Pedro is known for two unique dining experiences. The crab races held at Nauti Crab, where you bet on hermit crab races. And the chicken drop held at Wahoo’s Lounge, where you place your bets, roulette style, on the chicken pooping on a given number. We ventured over to Nauti Crab. While the food and drink were nothing special, it was fun to check out. We bet on the first of three races - where you select and name your crab, and if it wins, you win half the pot (the other half goes towards educational scholarships for local children). I am unsure about the chicken drop, but the MC at the hermit crab races is not PG, so consider that for sensitive ears. It’s not something we’ll do again, but it’s definitely a San Pedro experience.
If you like seafood, you must check out Caramba. There is a complete and extensive menu, but the true experience comes with selecting your off-the-boat catch from a table outside, choosing your preparation, and feasting on the freshest, most delicious seafood! The Hubs and I devoured a whole hogfish (prepared Caramba crunch style), a lobster tail (prepared with garlic butter sauce), and calamari (prepared blackened). The meal comes with coconut rice and a salad. Devine!
My Belizian dining must-have list includes watermelon juice, Marie Sharp’s hot sauce, fry jacks, and fresh seafood. Check, check, check, check!
While I believe that Ambergris Caye, or specifically San Pedro, might be experiencing some growing pains, I still recommend a visit to Belize. This little Central American country has so much to explore, with its Caribbean Sea shorelines and dense jungle.
I hope this motivates you to travel, eat…and return and share my journey through 7 continents and infinite foods.
8 Days/7 Nights
Day 1-5:
Day 5:
Day 6:
Nauti Crab (takes reservations)
Day 7:
Day 8:
**I would highly recommend that you make reservations in advance when available. I always book scheduled activities and typically make dinner reservations in advance. I’ve indicated with a parenthetical any restaurants that take reservations.